Shady Glen: Keeping it Old School

February 27, 2008


Photo Cred: Stephanie Bergeron


Sixty years ago, one man created the world's first lactic attack of a cheeseburger that has become a historical, yet delectable monument to the city of Manchester.

As of today, customers at Shady Glen, located at 840 Middle Turnpike, frequently order this well-known burger, having been aptly named after its creator, Bernice Reig.

For newcomers, coming face-to-face with this edible masterpiece of art can solicit an odd reaction; to describe it in words isn't doing it enough justice. To really tell its tale is to explain the preparation process.

With an ordinary slab of meat and three to four pieces of your everyday American cheese, both are combined to make something extraordinary. The slices of cheese are carefully placed as a mosaic on top of the meat patty as it sizzles, so that the edges untouched by the meat melt directly onto the grill. Contact with the hot surface allows the edges to turn chewy and crispy, and when dolled up with a bun, curves around the sandwich as if a clam was sticking its tongue out at someone.

A rather fun aspect of Shady Glen is the customers' experience of getting to watch everything being prepared right in the middle of the old dairy bar. That's because the booths and tables rest around the restaurant's cooking area; waitresses adorned in 1950s garb of pine-green dresses with aprons take orders, while cooks and bus boys saunter around in white button down shirts, bow ties and hats.

Shady Glen Dairy Bar is accustomed to their old-fashioned appeal, because it is what keeps customers coming back, that and their delicious burgers and homemade ice cream.

A common favorite platter amongst visitors would be the Bernice Special. For nine dollars, a decent sized platter of French fries and homemade coleslaw comes alongside your cheese-nificent burger. The waitress then sets a caddy full of ketchup, mustard, onions and relish down so that the customer can decorate his/her burger however they wish. For just a small additional cost, tomatoes and lettuce can be added as well.

Once seated, little paper cups of water are served, but what drink complements the burger the best? An old-fashioned milkshake of course, filled to the brim in a tall silver cup. The waitress gives you the entire beaker, so that you may help yourself to a couple chilly refills. Milkshakes are available in every flavor; some are rather eclectic, and range from vanilla, to grape-nuts or even chocolate Almond Joy ice cream.

For desserts, Shady Glen offers sundaes and fruit ice creams, which are crammed with fresh fruit from local and regional farms. "From the ice cream to the burgers, everything is fresh," says William Hoch, the executive manager of Shady Glen. Hoch goes to work at the crack of dawn everyday, and is very dedicated to the business. "The cleanliness, product and service are what counts, even down to the 1950s atmosphere."

Let me describe one process in hopes of making your mouth water. Some of the ice creams are topped with a rich, gooey chocolate sauce that hardens upon impact with the chilly treat, causing an explosion of rich, fudgy chunks.

Six dollars can take home your very own selection of hand-packed ice cream, and around the holidays, a half-gallon of Christmas ice cream (with red and green cherries) or some Thanksgiving pumpkin ice cream.

Amidst the shiny, stainless steel communal counters and colorful murals adorning the walls, lay booths full of amazingly satisfied customers. "It has been a great business," Hoch said as he spoke about the 60 year annivesary. The food is the same as it was in 1948, and won't be changing anytime soon.

The art of Shady Glen's cheeseburger has made this roadside restaurant a must, and even if Bernice made his signature burger mistakenly, it proves that good always comes out of the bad.